Use coarse-grit sandpaper to remove any paint and primer for a distance of 3 to 4 inches in all directions away from the hole. Use nylon window screen to fill in behind the hole and create a backer to hold the auto body filler.
Fully cured Bondo is harder than soft pine, and is not flexible. It can be worked drilled, sawed, routed, and finished similarly to hardwood. Bondo can easily be applied, shaped and finished within an hour.
Bondo Fiberglass Resin is designed for repairing cars, boats, snowmobiles, jet skis, bathtubs and showers. Bondo Fiberglass Resin is waterproof and is compatible with all paints, including gel coat and marine paints. There is no minimum thickness for Bondo , but there is absolutely a maximum. That does not mean it can't be done, but the repair will not last as long.
Eventually the filler will shrink and possibly crack or even fall off. Re: Bondo over JB Weld? If you do it, make sure there are scratches in the jb weld , meaning you should sand it. It definitely won't stick well to the jb weld as it hardens all shiny. Working from the front side and using the kit applicator, a putty knife, or even a stiff piece of cardboard, cover the screening with epoxy.
Apply epoxy until the hole is filled. Then build up the epoxy above the surface of the metal and let it slightly overlap the edges of the hole. Allow the epoxy to cure. See More Reviews. Permatex Liquid Metal Filler. Bondo over gaps in bodywork is a huge no-no, say hello to problems in a few years regardless of how well you did the "repair". Try to avoid using a dremel tool for cutting down welds, they will skip no matter how much of an iron grip you have, use a 90 degree die grinder with an 80 grit sanding pad installed.
Another alternative is to use a cut off wheel to dress the welds, but doing that will leave gouges in the metal regardless of how lightly you press. Simply tape thick cardboard around the area you are going to weld on, once you have a large enough border to catch large bits of spatter, use whatever you can find to cover the rest of your car.
If it's possible to reach in, try to have someone hold a thick piece of scrap copper behind the holes in order to make pooling the weld easier, it will also help prevent warpage. I would take the door out of the car, strip all parts away, strip the paint of, and weld in a new plate, bondo and respray then.
Or maybe even easier: get a good second hand door and respray to match color. Thanks for the great info, sounds like welding is the way to go. For now I am driving the car as a daily driver, great fun.
On my FC rx7, i actually filled in the spoiler and emblem holes with rage gold body filler alot better than bondo brand fillers. I think i put jb weld stick on the back side of the holes for support. It held up a few years recently gave the car away as a shell. Edit: That solder trick looks pretty good in my opinion. Do that, shave it down, than a skim coat of body filler on top of it should be good.
What about using all metal filler from the backside on the holes where you can get to the backside? I have my fenders off and all my interior panels out. I want to fill all the holes left over from removing the trim strips. My thinking was to put filler on from the backside so it could be built up a little thicker since it wont be seen, and sand it smooth from the outside. Seems like if it was slightly thicker that it would have less chances of cracking out later?
Anyone try this or see any issues with it? You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! Already have an account? Sign in here. By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings , otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. Recommended Posts. A mechanic and truck driver for more than 40 years, Lowell is able to write knowledgeably on many automotive and mechanical subjects.
He is currently pursuing a degree in English. Step 1 Remove any metal that is not solid from around the area of the hole that is to be repaired. Step 2 Use coarse-grit sandpaper to remove any paint and primer for a distance of 3 to 4 inches in all directions away from the hole.
Step 3 Use nylon window screen to fill in behind the hole and create a backer to hold the auto body filler. Step 4 Mix the amount of body filler that you can use in 10 minutes following the mixing directions on your can of body filler.
Step 5 Push filler into the hole, forcing it into the nylon screening. Step 6 Allow the filler to harden to the point when it can be dented with a fingernail. Step 7 Start with coarse sandpaper and sand the repaired spot smooth. Step 8 Fill any deep gouges that remain with more filler, sanding when it is hard, to finish this phase of the repair.
Step 9 Spray the repaired area with sandable automotive primer. Step 10 Allow the primer to dry completely, and sand smooth with fine sandpaper. If rust has thinned or eaten through the panel, then the Bondo needs a backup. Fiberglass sheets, metal mesh or fiberglass screen can be used. Once you have a good surface to work with, mix body filler with a spatula or plastic scraper on a piece of cardboard. Using your spatula, work the filler into the surface.
Try to keep the final thickness post-sanding less than a quarter-inch to prevent future cracking. After 15 to 20 minutes, use coarse sandpaper 30 to 60 grit to shape the repair and feather it to the surrounding body surface.
After another 30 to 40 minutes, the surface should be ready for final sanding with to grit paper. For more details, check out this write-up on the plastic body filler repair process.
There are some parts of your vehicle that may never rust, but other parts might seem like they could turn to dust right before your eyes without proper attention.
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