This is an overheating error. If the console becomes too hot, the system will shut down and display this light code. The fans will continue running until the components have been cooled. Three red lights. This indicates that one or more components have failed, and that the system is no longer operable unless you turn off your console for 24 hours. No error code will be displayed on the TV.
Four red lights. This indicates that the AV cable is not correctly plugged in. Check the connection from the console to the TV. This code will not display for HDMI connections. Method 2. Purchase a fix it kit. These kits typically come packaged with an Xbox opener, new thermal paste, new heat sinks, and new washers. Some will include all of the screwdrivers you will need as well. Performing this fix yourself can be difficult, but can fix most cases of RRoD. To fix it yourself, you will need to open the and remove the motherboard from the case.
They are removed by prying the clamps off the back of the motherboard. After removing the heat sinks, you will need to scrape off the old thermal grease and apply a new layer. You may need to use acetone or nail polish remover to remove the old thermal paste. After removing the thermal paste, you will remove the squishy thermal pads.
Replace the heat sinks and the thermal pads with the new parts and reassemble the Xbox. Have the console professionally fixed. There are many establishments, both online and in brick-and-mortar shops, which offer Xbox repairs. They will essentially be performing the steps outlined above. They may also reflow the solder using a heat gun. These repairs can be costly, but may be more reliable than doing it yourself.
Be sure to choose with a trusted establishment. Have the console sent in to Microsoft. If you are still under warranty, Microsoft will replace or repair your failed console. You may have to pay shipping or additional fees depending on the details of your warranty.
Nylon washers aren't necessary; there are no traces or components to be touched around the screw holes. But if you feel you must have them, I will not stop you from purchasing them. And while you are working with the heatsinks, you may want to apply new and better thermal paste to them. I suggest picking up a tube of Arctic Silver 5. Anything else like tape and steel scrubbers should be kicking around in your house. Right, first thing we gotta do is open this sucka up.
I'll point you to the tutorial I read, because opening the is an Instructable in itself. Set the motherboard on a clean surface, like a newspaper. Put the DVD drive, screws, plastic case and other parts someplace where they can't get harmed.
Now you gotta remove the heatsinks from the processors. This is very nerve-wracking. I used a small flathead screwdriver, and pried two or three of the X-Clamp's legs from the posts attached to the heatsinks. But if the blade of said pointy object were to slip, it could take out a bunch of tiny parts as it scrapes across your motherboard.
The solution? Put a piece of corrugated cardboard over the motherboard, where the screwdriver blade would rip through. So if it were to slip now, it'll just hurt a severed piece of a box. You'll want to pop off 3 of the bracket legs because the 4th one won't have anything holding it on.
Once you get the clamps off, the heatsinks will come off on top side of the motherboard you may need to tug on them a bit if the thermal paste is sticky. The next step deals with the heatsinks themselves. Take a metal scrubber and remove the thermal gunk from the heatsinks. Nothing better than powering on a reborn with clean heatsinks, no? To use those 5MM machine screws, you'll need to widen the 8 screw holes in the metal case that previously secured the X-clamp posts.
They are highlighted in the second photo. If you're using a hand drill, set a wooden block under each hole as you drill it to avoid warping the case. If you're using a drill press as I did there should be a steel pedestal with a hole for the drill bit to pass through, saving the case from serious FUBAR-age. Have the bit spinning before you push into the center of the hole. Repeat this for all the holes. Make sure there are no burrs left on the holes or shards kicking around in the case afterwards.
Bang it around a few times to get them out. The last thing you'd want is to have your die from little pieces of metal shorting it out. So far, we've prepped the heatsinks and the motherboard case for these 5MM screws.
Now we get to make sumthin' of it! With the case sitting flat, fan hole in the back on the right, take note of where you need to stick these screws. Now put the 5x15MM screws in the GPU screwholes, screwheads on the outside, so that they come into the case. Put tape over the heads to keep them from falling back out, as shown in the second photo. This tape is very important so don't take it off until I say so!
Ha ha. Lay the case flat again and all the screws should be poking up at you, as they are in the main photo. Place 3 or 4 5MM washers on each of them, the idea being to get them level with the motherboard standoffs. Use a straightedge to check. If they come up too short or too high the motherboard will get warped and you won't be fixing anything. Now the fun begins. You gotta get the motherboard back in the case with the goal of getting the screws into those orange holes that the X-Clamp posts went through.
All while you try to keep those washers on the screws! If they fall off at any point, you'll have to take the motherboard out, put them back on the screw s , and repeat. So try not to do it, eh? Tilt the case onto its right side where the hard drive connector would be so that you can reach the screws underneath. Angle the back of the motherboard into the case and push it all the way to the rear of the case.
Get medium size towels. First,wrap one towel horizontally around the Xbox as if it were standing,covering the fans and disc tray. Then wrap another around the top where the hard drive is located and the bottom vents.
Repeat as deemed necessary. Once fully covered, turn on the Xbox. Keep it on for 30 minutes to one hour SEE: Tips Once you think its done, turn it off and unwrap towels. This is the tricky part,you have to decide whether to turn it on immediately or let it cool down first.
I try to turn it on right away. If you choose to turn it on immediately and receive the red lights again,wait for minutes and turn it on again. If you still get the red lights, start all over again. When done correctly, you may turn on your Xbox and get pwned in Halo 3 for about one to two weeks. Turn off the Xbox completely. All lights should be deactivated, and you should hear the fan in the console turn off. Disconnect all cables and devices from the console.
This includes power sources, controllers, USB sticks, and other accessories. Remove the external hard drive if one is attached. The external hard drive is a bump on the top of the console. Press the release button on the top of the hard drive, and it will lift away. Reconnect the power source and restart the console. Connect controllers and accessories one at a time until either the error is tripped again, indicating a problem with that specific accessory, or the controllers and accessories connect without issue.
Shut down the console and reattach the hard drive. Reboot the console and check the drive. If the error appears again, shut down the console and contact Microsoft support for possible repair or replacement options. Two red LEDs means the Xbox is overheating.
If this happens, do the following:. Shut down the console and clear away any items that are next to it or around it. Check, in particular, for anything that blocks the cooling vents or the fan on the console.
Move the Xbox to another location near the TV, where it has open space. If it's on a crowded shelf, for example, remove the items and give it a space to itself. Let the console cool for at least an hour before rebooting it. This is the Red Ring of Death referred to earlier. Three LEDs are the code for a general hardware failure.
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